The two suppliers that I use most often for binding thread are Colophon Book Arts Supply and Talas. However, many many vendors sell thread for bookbinding. I have used silk button thread for a small book, since it was the only thread that I could find in the color that I wanted. The photo above shows types of thread most commonly used to sew books. The photo illustrates that binding thread is sold in different sizes. The second number 3, 5 and so on, indicates the number of strands that are wound together to form the thread. The first number indicates the thickness. Therefore thread that is labeled 25/3 is thinner than 18/3. Most often I use 16/3 or 18/3. But every project varies and I seldom ever say one size fits all. It is best to have a variety of size and colors on hand.  I am not real sure how vendors determine the first number. My best guestimation is that it relates to the length of thread need to equal a set amount of weight. I am not sure where along the way I heard this. Perhaps you can let me know the best answer.

Information and photos from Sandra Anible’s paste paper demo will be posted soon. Write me if you did not pick up one of her handouts.

Danika used leather from a purse that she bought at a thrift store to use as the cover. Heavy weight drawing paper was used for the journal pages. She said sewing is easier if you use waxed linen thread. You will need two needles to sew this book.

Step by step photos can be seen by going to the Read more >.

Place the leather cover / wrapper on a flat work surface. Next place two signatures of folded drawing paper as illustrated above.

Thread needles onto both ends of a long length of thread.

Both signatures should have holes punched in this pattern. At the top of the fold you need two holes about a half inch apart. For this spine pattern, you need to make 6 holes on the spine of each signature. You will start sewing inside the SECOND hole of the second signature.

Lay both signatures on the leather cover. Notice that holes have been already been punched into the leather cover. Remember that this layout allows has a longer piece of leather on the right side. This extra portion is going to be used as a wrapper to close the journal once it is finished.

Move them closer together in order to grab both signatures and to start sewing.

If you are right handed, start on the signature that is on the right. It can be done from the left if you are left handed. Remember (this is very important) that you will start the sewing at the second hole from the top.

In this photo she is grabbing both signatures. However the next step only requires that you thread one needle through the second to the top hole. It is very important to start from inside the fold at the second hole. The needle and thread only pass through the paper at this point. Do not thread the needle through the leather at this stage.

Once the first needle has been threaded through the right side signature, move the needle over the the second hole from the top of the left side signature. Thread it from the spine side.

Here you can see the front of the needle passing through the second hole of the left side signature.

Just a reminder that the thread is been passed through the second hole of the left and right side signatures but not through the leather. Pull the needle and thread so that the length of the middle of the thread’s length is split evenly between the two signatures.

This is an inside view of the left side signature.

You now have one thread through both signatures. Each signature has one needle. At this stage, you want to find the needle that is in the right signature and thread the needle into the top hole as illustrated above.

Pull the thread so that it is tight. Remember to keep the length of the thread even on both sides. You need length of thread to sew both signatures.

Once the thread is pulled tight on the right side signature, you will pass the needle and thread through the top hole of the leather wrapper.

On the left side signature, repeat the step by moving the thread and needle through the top hole.

This photo illustrates the sequence for the thread and needle on the left side signature.

The portion of the image with the needle is a bit out of focus, but it illustrates how the needle and thread are passed through the leather wrapper from each signature. At this point the two signatures are now being sewn to the wrapper with the single length of waxed linen thread.

The thread is pulled tight and the two signatures are aligned on the top of the wrapper.

This image illustrated the view from the spine. Notice that the thread passed through the inside of the fold out through the spine at the top hole.

Next the needles and thread are sewn back into the signatures at the second hole.

This is the point of the binding where the chris-cross decorative stitch begins. Start with the thread from the inside of either signature and thread the needle from the inside out at the next hole (3rd hole).

Once the thread is pulled tight, the needle is moved to the top left stitch to form a diagonal line.

The same needle and thread are returned to the same hole and inserted back into the the hole that it came from.

The needle and thread are brought back into the same hole and the same signature. Then they are left alone while you move over to the other signature with the other needle.

Next, grab the needle in the left signature and thread the needle out of the thrid hole from the inside.

Once the needle has been pulled tight, slide it under the diagonal stitch as illustrated.

The needle should pass under the thread and then should hook in at the top stitch of the opposite signature to create a diagonal line with the thread. The first upward stitch should go under the diagonal stitch and then on the down one it can stay above the stitch. You are simply trying to make a cross over design or pattern. Once you complete this side, you should have completed one section of both signatures. You simply continue this pattern, by sewing one section at a time for each signature until you reach the bottom of the book. To tie off, simply tie a knot on the inside of the last sewing hole.

A closer view of the stitched pattern on the spine of the finished book.

View of the full wrapper.

This inside view shows the thread as it is tied off at the bottom of the signature. You will need to tie down the thread inside of both signatures.

You can see a gallery of photos illustrating the step to make a two-signature pamphlet binding here.

Once you finish these simple steps, you will have a concertina with 11 pleats. These photos demonstrate an easy approach. If you need real narrow concertina pleats, say less than half an inch wide, you may need to experiment with other methods. I will be happy to show you how to use the vandercook press to score your paper.
Image 1

Start with a sheet of paper 22 inches x 8 inches. Draw short marks every two inches along the top or long edge of the sheet. The marks will be used as folding guides. A two-inch interval will produce a concertina pleat that is one inch wide. The marks can be drawn at any desired spacing. Remember, that the pleats will be half the width of the spacing. This is will be cleared up in a few steps.
Image 2

Once the marks have been drawn on the top of the sheet, take either side and fold the length toward the opposite edge of the sheet. In this photograph, the left edge is folded toward the first mark on the right side of the sheet and fold the sheet flat. Keep the top and bottom edges aligned and fold the paper straight down. The fold needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the long side.
Image 3

Next, move the left edge to the next mark, and again fold the sheet flat, keeping the paper aligned to create a perpendicular fold.
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Repeat folding the sheet by moving the edge to the next mark until the end of the sheet is reached.
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Continue making folds, aligning the marks, using the opposite side of the sheet until the sheet is folded every two inches. In this example, the sheet of paper will have 11 folded pleats.
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Once all the folds have been made, the sheet needs to be folded back and forth to create the concertina. Start at one end and fold the paper forward at the first crease. Turn the paper over and fold again at the second crease. Repeat folding back and forth until all the folds are made.
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This is the basic approach for the concertina structure. It can be used as a support for sewing envelopes or folded pages or for using in a flag book. Conservation binders use thin paper to make small concertina pleats as a guard for the spine of a book. The concertina pleat has many uses. Smaller pleats can be trickier to fold if you need to make lots of them and hope they align. I will be happy to show you how to use the Vandercook Press to score lines for accurate folds.

Visit these photo galleries for ideas. Have fun.